FAQs
Spring
- When is the best time to trim liriope?
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The best time to trim your liriope is before new growth emerges, which is usually between March and April.
- I have some bare spots in my lawn and I want to re-seed, when should I do it?
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Grass seed germination begins in mid-April and ends in mid-October. You can re-seed your lawn any time within this period, just be sure to keep the area moist for about three weeks afterwards.
- I have some snow damage on a few of my deciduous shrubs and trees. Where and when should I trim them?
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Deciduous trees are the ones that drop all their leaves in the fall or winter, and then grow new ones in the spring. If you have snow damage on your deciduous trees, remove the dead or damaged branches back to a viable bud or lateral branch.
- When do my deciduous plants begin to push their foliage?
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You can expect to see spring foliage from the beginning of March through late May, depending upon the type of plant you have.
- The brick patio that was installed has risen and settled in some areas, what can I do to fix it?
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After all the frost is out of the ground, you should always evaluate your brick area's condition. Patios and walks should return to their original grade. If you find settled brick areas, they can be raised without too much difficulty by lifting the bricks, adding #10 grit until the correct levelness has been achieved, and then re-sanding the joints for a finished appearance.
- Is there an optimum depth to excavate to insure that there will be minimal heaving in my patio during the winter months?
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The necessary depth of excavation depends on the drainage properties of your soil type. Typically, 10 to 12 inches is sufficient depth in the mid-Atlantic region.
- My Rhododendrons still have the remnants of their flower buds on them, what should I do?
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You can cut off the dead flower head just to the first leaf buds if they are unattractive to you. This is for cosmetic reasons and not necessary for the health of the plant.
- Are there some plants that flower before they push their leaves?
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Yes. Witch hazel, forsythia, redbud, flowering cherry, and flowering pear are all examples of trees and shrubs that show their flowers before they show their leaves.
Summer
- Help! There's fungus on my mulch, and it's attacking my house, what is it and what should I do?
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Fungus is a normal part of the decomposing process of wood mulch, and it is usually harmless to plants. Fungus most commonly appears between April and November, after it has rained. Those unsightly clumps, clusters or slimy patches you see on your mulch may be orange, yellow, brown or some other color, depending on what variety you have. Since there are so many different types of fungus, it is best to contact your local county extension agency to learn about the best way to get rid of the particular variety you have in your yard. (PSU's Cooperative Extension, Lehigh County Office: http://lehigh.extension.psu.edu/)
- What's the best height to mow my grass in the summer?
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One of the highest blade settings on your lawn mower is usually best for summertime mowing. You only want to cut the grass back to about three inches in height. Cutting the grass at a longer length will help protect it from damage during the scorching summer months--especially in areas that receive little or no shade. As the temperatures cool down in autumn, you can begin to cut the grass at a lower setting again.
Here are a few additional lawn mowing tips:
* You should only mow when it is necessary, and not as a general routine. Lawns that are mowed more frequently are not necessarily the thickest. During arid summer weather (and especially during droughts), following this rule will help prevent stressing your turf. During such extreme conditions, it is just fine to just skip a few weeks of mowing when you see no growth in your lawn at all.
* Make sure the blades on your mower are always sharp. This way, they make nice, clean cuts on the grass.
* Using a mulching mower is good way to naturally fertilize your grass as you mow. This requires that you not let the lawn grow too long between cuttings, however.Need to speak with a lawn care specialist? Our Forever Green division is ready to assist you. Call 610-481-9882 (Allentown) or 610-861-8566 (Bethlehem), or click here to e-mail us.
For advice on how to care for newly installed lawns, please check out our Aftercare page. For more general lawn and landscaping tips, please go back to the top of this page and peruse the index.
- How often should I water my lawn?
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For newly seeded areas, you should keep the area moist, but not saturated, for about two or three weeks, which is usually as long as it takes for the seeds to germinate and get established. Newly sodded lawns also need to be watered consistently and regularly in the first few weeks after installation. (See our Aftercare page for more information on watering both types of newly installed lawns.)
Once your lawn has been allowed to establish itself for a month or so (when the grass is up to about 1-to-1.5 inches tall), you should start to water for longer periods of time. The ideal amount of water per sprinkler is no less than ¼ inch on established turf. You should allow the lawn to dry out lightly between waterings.
The more you water properly, the faster and stronger the grass will grow. With that in mind, here are some additional advice:
* Try not to over-water your lawn at any time. Runoff and heavy puddles are not good for the lawn at any stage of it's growth.
* Do not water on heavily overcast or rainy days.
* The best time to water is right after the morning dew lifts, until the hot peak of the day. The exact hours of the day for this time period will vary throughout the year.
* You can water in the late afternoon after the heat has peaked and temperatures start to decrease. Just be sure to allow time for the grass to dry out before the night falls.
* Your lawn should be dry overnight, if possible, to help prevent blight. Therefore, if you decide to water in the afternoon or early evening, you should stop the sprinklers at least two hours before sunset. - I planted some shrubs in March of this year, and we've had a wet spring. How concerned should I be about watering through the summer?
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When it comes to getting your new plantings adjusted to life in your yard, having a rainy spring is not as important as keeping your new shrubs moist during the hot summer months. Usually, that means watering 2 to 3 times per week during the summer.
- Aside from perennials, are there other ways to bring summer-blooming flowers into my landscaping? If so, what are they and which are the hardiest?
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You aren't just limited to perennials (generally speaking, these are plants that live longer than just one year and bloom during a specific season each year) if you want summer blooms. Many shrubs and trees produce flowers after mid-June. Some examples are: itea, clethra, hydrangea, spirea, magnolias, and sourwood. All of these are hardy plant choices for the zone 6 growing area, in which the Lehigh Valley lies.
- I planted a variegated holly in the shade and its lost it's golden color. What happened?
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This type of holly requires partial sun to maintain its variegation, which means its bi- or multi-colored leaves. You should consider moving it to a more suitable location.
- I'm planning on building or contracting to build a pergola on my property. How can I make sure that it will last over time, and that it won't look out-of-place in my landscaping?
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The design of a pergola (an arbor or a passageway with a roof of trelliswork on which climbing plants are trained to grow) should fit within the scale and surrounding features of the specified area. In order to insure structural integrity without it becoming offensively "over-structured," do your homework carefully. Gardening books available at your local library are a good start. If you find it difficult to judge these elements, consider contacting a landscape designer to help you
- I want to do some planting now, but I'm worried about planting in the summer. Are my concerns warranted?
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While the heat and dryness are valid concerns, you can have success with summer planting. With proper watering and care, plant material can be installed during the summer and thrive. Ask your landscape installation team or nursery staff about the best treatment for the specific plants you want to install during the summer.
- Plantique put a small pond in last month and I'm losing a few inches of water every two weeks or so. Is this normal?
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Yes, this is common. The movement of water increases evaporation during summer months, which is why it is important to add water to maintain proper levels in your pond.
- My pond has a leak. How can I isolate the problem without ripping the whole thing apart?
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There are two good ways to find a leak without taking apart your pond. One way is to observe where the water level drops to when you turn the pump off. Another trick is to look for air bubbles in the pond.
- I want a retaining wall on my property. What options do I have? What types of materials are available to do retaining walls?
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There are many options available when it comes to retaining walls. You can choose a straight or curved wall, depending upon your taste or needs. You may want a simple high wall, or something that incorporates two or more tiers for a softer effect. When it comes to materials there are lots of choices as well, including natural stone, boulders, manmade pavers or blocks, and timber. Your designer can help you select the best options for your needs and personal taste.
- I had a brick patio installed last year and the sand between the bricks has washed out. What should I do?
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Sand in the joints prevents the brickwork from moving around, so replace what has been washed away promptly. Do this by brushing new sand (you can use the sandbox variety available at your hardware store) over the entire patio and into the joints.
- My azaleas look washed-out, and there is black stuff under the leaves. What's going on?
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That washed-out appearance and black growth on the underside of the leaves may indicate insect infestation. Contact your county extension for proper identification and the best remedy for the particular infestation your azaleas have. (PSU's Cooperative Extension, Lehigh County Office: http://lehigh.extension.psu.edu/)
- My Alberta spruces have a reddish tinge to them. Are they diseased?
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Most likely they have spider mites, which are tiny insects that suck sap from their plant hosts. Your Alberta Spruces will probably have to be sprayed with an approved pesticide. For more information, or organic alternatives to this treatment, talk to your county extension office. (PSU's Cooperative Extension, Lehigh County Office: http://lehigh.extension.psu.edu/)
- What are the signs of plant stress?
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Wilting leaves, brown leaf edges, yellowing leaves and lack of flowers are all signs of plant stress. To reduce the severity, try to do your planting during the spring or fall. Full-sun plants will show less signs of stress if several days of overcast skies follow their installation. Proper watering and soil conditions also make a difference.
- I'm having an addition put on my house and there are some plants I want to save before construction begins. What chances do the plants have of surviving if I transplant them now, in the summer?
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If you provide enough TLC, the chances are good that your plants will survive a summer move. Although there is a greater risk to the plants' health during the hot, dry months, they can still be safely moved with proper digging techniques, watering and after care. It is not, however, good to move plants if they are blooming.
- My rhododendrons are drooping. What's wrong with them?
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These plants may droop if they get too little or too much water. Check the soil conditions. If the soil is dry, you probably just aren't watering them enough. If the soil is wet, perhaps poor drainage conditions or over-watering is to blame.
Fall
- I've always heard that "fall is for planting." Why is that so?
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In the fall, plant material goes dormant. When this happens, there is less risk of transplant shock for your plants, and less demanding watering requirements for you.
- I have a variety of pine trees on my property and every fall I worry about the yellow needles that appear, especially under my white pines. Why does this happen?
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This is something all conifers (cone-bearing trees or shrubs with needle-type or scale-type leaves, such as pines, spruces and firs) do to some extent. Every autumn, white pines will shed their needles more noticeably than many other varieties of conifers.
- The chrysanthemums I planted last fall didn't come up this year. Do you know why?
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Chrysanthemums need to have enough time to establish a good root system before winter in order to survive and bloom the following year. Perhaps yours were planted too late in the season, or the cold winter conditions set in too early last year.
- What does winterizing my plants entail?
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Winterizing is simply getting your plants ready for the long, cold season ahead. Before the end of autumn, spread a layer of mulch around your planting beds, fertilize them (provided the drought emergency is over), and cut back whichever trees and shrubs require fall pruning. Most perennials should be trimmed back to the ground, after frosts have killed them back. For more information on the specific winterizing needs of individual varieties of plants, check out the gardening and landscaping section of your local library, contact your local cooperative extension office, or call your designer.
- What lawn care steps should I take in autumn?
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The milder temperatures of fall make it a great season for improving the condition of your grass. Here's a short checklist of lawn care items to consider doing before the winter comes:
o Repair damaged or dead areas
o Aerate compacted ground
o Plant new grass seed or lay sod
o Take a soil test, if needed
o Fertilize your lawn before it hibernatesFor more information on this topic, we recommend a great Web article offered by Penn State's Cooperative Extention. Click here to check it out.
- Do I need to be concerned about watering my plants in the months before winter?
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Yes! Plants still need water all the way through autumn-especially newly planted trees and shrubs. This fall, make sure your plants get all the water they require, just as you did during the warmer months. (If drought restrictions are still in effect in your area, be sure your watering habits meet these requirements.)
- Do I need to shut my pond down for the winter? How will my fish survive if I do?
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It may not be necessarily to shut down your pond for the winter. But, if you do decide to leave it running, keep an eye out for ice dams that can form on the waterfalls. These dams can cause leaks. Clear out leaves and debris as they build up in the pond, too. Since fish hibernate at the bottom of ponds for the winter, they should survive just fine. Just be sure the pond doesn't completely freeze down to the bottom. In the late, chilly part of fall, you can even stop feeding your fish, since they won't digest food properly in the cold water anyway.
- When is it too late to plant or do landscape construction in our area?
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You can plant and landscape through much of the fall, up until the ground freezes.
- How deep is the frost line in our area?
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The frost line for the Lehigh Valley area is about one to three feet.
- I have new plantings that are showing some premature signs of stress: early fall color, some leaf loss, etc. Is this normal?
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Yes, it is very common for new plantings to show these kinds of stress as they adjust to their new environment. In fact, stress from summer heat or lack of water can affect a plant's appearance all the way into the fall months.
- Some of my new trees are leaning, should I stake them now, or is it too late? How do you determine if trees need staking in the first place?
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It's not too late to stake your leaning tree, or any newly planted trees that are not standing straight, seem top-heavy or are located in windy areas. While opinions may vary on this topic, we feel that trees should be staked on an individual basis. If you anticipate excessive winter winds in your area, staking may be necessary, depending upon the site conditions and tree size. If you do stake a tree, be sure to allow a few inches of slack in the wire or strap so that the tree can sway in the breeze. You should also take the stake and strapping accessories away after a year or so to prevent damage to the growing stems.
- The foliage on my microbiota has turned a shade of bronze. Is this normal?
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Yes, the bronze tint you see is the fall/winter color that is typical of microbiota, also called Russian arborvitae.
- I've heard that the dwarf-winged euonymus is the best medium-sized shrub for fall foliage color. Are there any plants that rival the fall colors of the "fire bush"?
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While dwarf-winged euonymus is a spectacular choice for fall foliage color, there are many other plants that offer equally vibrant hues. Winterberry holly, high bush blueberry, holly chokeberry (for its berry color) and witch hazel are some excellent choices for colorful autumn foliage.
- I want to do a major landscaping project. Should I wait until the spring, or are the prices less cost prohibitive now?
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Although prices, in general, do tend to go up in the spring for some plants and services, autumn landscaping projects aren't necessarily less expensive. Cost benefits that you may be able to get in the fall include end-of-season prices on certain trees and shrubs in our nursery, and on particular overstocked landscape materials Plantique may have. If your project is flexible, you may be able to take advantage of these savings. Of course, since fall is the best time for planting, autumn landscape projects tend to have higher success rates when it comes to installing trees, shrubs and other greenery-something that may save you money and hassles later on down the line.
Winter
- What are Plantique's winter hours?
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Plantique's winter hours are 8:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m., Monday through Friday. Our designers are on winter schedule rotation, but our office staff will be happy to assist you in contacting any one of them or in setting up an appointment on their behalf. Our field crews are back in action during the first week of March, weather permitting. Plantique's maintenance crews for our All-Inclusive Residential Program will be open all season, and customers who are already enrolled should call our maintenance sales manager, Lou Klegarth, at 610-395-6940 if they have any questions or concerns. Please note that you may be asked to leave a message during our shortened winter hours, but Plantique will always provide a timely response to your inquiries. You may also e-mail us at: inform@plantique.com.
- How do I get in touch with someone at Plantique if I run into a problem over the winter with newly installed landscaping?
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Please contact us our main office at 610-395-6940 with any warranted landscaping concerns, and we will work to resolve the problems as quickly as possible. You may also e-mail us at: inform@plantique.com.
- How early in the new year can I get in touch with a designer to begin planning my landscape projects?
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Winter is a great time to start! Often you can beat the spring rush to get onto the installation schedule by getting your ideas to our designers while the weather is still chilly. You can contact our designers immediately through our main office (610-395-6940), or by e-mailing us at: inform@plantique.com. Don't forget to check out the resources on our links page, and the beautiful final projects in the archived pages of our biannual newsletter, Your Backyard, for some great ideas!
- Are there any special things I need to do to protect less-hardy plants in the event of deep snow? Should I dig them out or leave them alone?
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While you may have heard of several interesting "home remedies" for wintering over plants, human intervention isn't usually the best solution. Mother Nature protects her plants in her own way. Digging out plants-especially recently installed or other more-sensitive ones-can actually cause more harm than good. Your shovel or scraper may hurt the branches or stems, and you might take away the valuable insulation that a blanket of snow can provide. Your designer and our nursery staff selected the best plant materials for your location and conditions, and we stand by our warrantees. So leave the snowy plants alone and enjoy the scenic wintry view out your window!
- A few years ago, ice storms really damaged some of my big, older trees. Is there anyway I can prevent this from happening again?
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Unfortunately, there isn't much homeowners can safely do on their own to protect very old, large trees from ice-storm damage. Branches are often too high or too immense to reach from a safe location, even if there were an easy solution. That doesn't mean ignore the risks-harm to either people or property resulting from a fallen tree or limb is a serious concern. It is best to contact a certified arborist to discuss your options before the cold weather comes. An arborist can also best assess the damage to a tree after ice-storm injury has occurred. These specialists can devise a proper action plan for pruning, trimming and TLC that can often help a tree survive and flourish for years to follow. Plantique's Forever Green Total Tree Care & Shrub Maintenance division is ready to assist you year-round. Contact us by calling 610-481-9882 (Allentown), 610-861-8566 (Bethlehem) or by e-mailing inform@plantique.com.
- I hear salting driveways and walkways is bad for nearby plants and some paving surfaces. Is that true?
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While deicing agents such as salt and calcium chloride are effective at melting the snow and ice, they can also harm some plant material. It's best to keep the use of salt and calcium chloride products to a minimum, and to remove them from your driveways and walkways as soon as the surfaces are clear and dry. If you do use a deicer, spread the smallest amount necessary to begin breaking up the hardened chunks of ice, then get in there with your shovel and some elbow grease. Besides your plants, many driveway and walkway surfaces do not hold up well to excessive salting or deicing, especially those made from concrete. And don't forget that on softer paving surfaces, such as brick, concrete pavers and flagstone, you should stick with a plastic snow shovel. Metal shovels can chip and damage the material lying just below the ice and snow.
Looking for more great gardening and landscaping tips and advice? Check out Your Backyard, Plantique's customer newsletter, or browse our Aftercare page.



